Does everyone remember how their love affairs began? Because my love affair with beets came into fruition oddly and unexpectedly, at a restaurant in Harbour Island, Bahamas. One of my best friend’s fathers ordered a beet salad and for some reason, I was stupefied that my mouth had never met a beet in its life. And being that I’m obsessed with trying any and everything the planet has to offer us, and I was with a family that obligingly and lovingly gave away bites of their food, it intrigued me. ”Ooooooh, beets? Can I try them?” I said. My friend whispered to me, “don’t do it, eating beets is like eating soil.” Never one to be scared off by gross descriptions, it fueled my need to sample. I tried it, and it tasted as if I was sticking my face in mounds of dirt. I tried to contain my disgust. Beets and me were now officially on a five-year hiatus.

Fast forward to a dinner here in Boston a few months ago where a good friend of mine ordered a beet salad similar to the one that night in the Bahamas. “Ooooh,” she cooed as she ate, “I LOVE beets, wanna try?” I told her I’d rather stick with my grilled cheese than eat concentrated vegetable soil. “Oh, shut up,” she said, “you like everything that’s sweet, and these are delicious!” as she stuck one in my mouth. I looked at her, eyes wide. Love affair begun, once again, in an instant.

Beets kind of remind me of love that develops through time. On the outside, poor beets are super ugly and do not even look edible. But when you roast them and peel them and cut them, they burst and become fierce. Their color is fiery and they give off a deep, maroon hue, the color that I’d imagine love to be like. Their flavor is difficult to describe (demurely sweet? earthy? dense but kinda slippery?), much like the best feelings of love out there. When you cut these up, and pour some pistachio butter (????!!!) over them, and sprinkle them with goat cheese, these delectable little trinkets just add to the beets true essence.

But they’d even be wonderful without them. Even if love sees tumultuous times, it doesn’t been its absent, not there, or completely real.

Beets with pistachio butter

Adapted from Mark Bittman

Notes: if you don’t have pistachios, feel free to use any other nut you have at home. Walnuts would be great as well. Also feel free to do this with any other roasted vegetable/nut combination. In theory, this recipe is really an idea that can be taken anywhere your mind goes.

Also, if you don’t eat many beets, note that they stain everything: your cutting board, your knife, your white walls and your white shirt, even your insides, if you know what I mean. They’re like scary murder when you peel and cut them, but their deliciousness is worth it! Just be prepared.

Easily make this dish vegan by omitting the goat cheese.

For the beets

4 large or 8 medium beets (I used 5 large)

For the pistachio butter

1/4 – 1/2 cup avocado oil

4 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled

1 cup shelled pistachios

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Chopped pistachios, to garnish

4 ounces goat cheese, crumbled, optional (omit for whole30 or dairy-free)

Cook the beets

Set the oven at 400 degrees. Wash the beets well. Wrap them individually in foil and put them on a cookie sheet or roasting pan.

Cook, undisturbed, for 45 to 90 minutes, until a thin-bladed knife pierces one with little resistance. Depending on their size, they may cook at different rates; check and remove each one when it is done.

Make the pistachio butter

While the beets are cooking, make the pistachio butter. Put half of your oil in a skillet over medium heat. When its hot, add the garlic and cook for about a minute, then add the pistachios; cook, stirring often, for about 3 minutes.

Remove from the heat, let cool for a bit, and transfer to a food processor. Puree until smooth, adding more oil if necessaryl the consistency should be thinner than that of peanut butter, just pourable. Taste and adjust the seasoning. The pistachio butter can be covered and refrigerated for up to two weeks.

Assemble

Slip the skins off the beets and cut them into large chunks or slices. Sprinkle them with salt and pepper. Put the beets in a serving dish and spoon the pistachio butter over the top, garnish with the chopped pistachios and goat cheese, if using. Serve hot or at room temperature.