I’ll never forget a day exactly three years ago, when I attended my first official Passover dinner. It was a huge production. Unlike anything I had ever experienced, it was legitimately immersed in the Jewish culture and I loved every second of it.  It was one of those special meals that is forever engrained in your memory because you have such warm feelings towards it. The dinner table was set up exquisitely and we went around the room reading from the Torah, saying prayers out loud, and eating dish after dish in succession. I remember eating an egg, gefilte fish, matzo, fruit salad, Manischewitz wine (the mandatory four glasses), and I can’t remember what else because there was an such a large abundance of food. I also can’t remember some dishes because one was so particularly good that it made me forget everything else, it made me live in a vortex where only me and this meat existed. For this vegan that cheats, you know that means it was damn right delicious.

The lady whose house I went to for this special dinner ranted and raved about how the brisket marinated for days and cooked for hours. I could taste the care that was put into it. As I was leaving, I pulled her aside and asked her for the recipe. Being fully aware of my love for cooking and job as an official recipe hoarder, she refused to give it to me. I pleaded. “Sorry honey, it’s a secret,” she frowned.

I went to try and make it at home, with this recipe from America’s Test Kitchen. And although it makes the brisket shine in all of its meaty sweet glory, with tenderness that makes fall apart graciously and delicately, sturdy with sweet onion flavor, it did not compare to the one I had that day at that Passover dinner. Oh, well. Maybe next year.

Brisket with chipotles, onions, & brown sugar

Adapted from America’s Test Kitchen

Notes: If you have a Jewish grandmother, I’m sure her recipe for brisket is different (and maybe better) than this one. But! This one has some spices and chiles, so I guess it’s more of a hispanic brisket, and I have hispanic grandmothers. What’s authentic, anyway?

The recipe below is for the oven but easily make this in a slow cooker: marinate the brisket the same way, saute the onions the same way. Add the brisket to the slow cooker, then the onion mixture on top, cook it for 9-11 hours on low or 5-7 hours on high then proceed as directed in the recipe.

1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar

3 tablespoons minced canned chipotle chile in adobo

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon sweet paprika

Salt and pepper

1 (5-pound) flat-cut beef brisket, trimmed

2 onions, halved and sliced

2 tablespoons tomato paste

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 tablespoon chili powder

1/2 cup water

1/4 cup chile sauce or ketchup

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1/3 teaspoon liquid smoke

In a medium bowl, combine sugar, 2 tablespoons chipotles, cumin, paprika, 1 teaspoon salt, and 2 teaspoons pepper. Using a form, prick brisket all over. Rub sugar mixture over brisket, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 8-24 hours.

After brisket has marinated, unwrap it place it in a large baking dish. Set aside. Set oven at 250 degrees F.

In a large skillet, heat oil and saute onions until softened, about 8 minutes. Add tomato paste, garlic, chili powder, and remaining tablespoon chipotles, and cook 1-2 minutes longer. Place onion mixture on top of brisket, add 1/2 cup water, cover tightly with foil, and bake for 4-5 hours, until meat is fork tender.

Transfer brisket to a cutting board and tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 20 minutes. Let braising liquid settle a bit, then remove fat from the surface using a large spoon. Whisk in ketchup, vinegar, and liquid smoke, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Slice brisket in 1/2 thick slices against the grain and arrange on a serving platter. Spoon 1 cup of the sauce over meat and serve with remaining sauce.